Sunday 4 March 2018

grasslands.

Kazakhstan is a strangely great place. As long as you love desert, whooping distances between cities and a bit of chaos and disorganization. I had no great expectations, it was supposed to be a visa run (getting an exit and entry stamp to prolong my Chinese visa) country for 2-3 days. I stayed 3 weeks. I wanted to cross the border from Kyrgyzstan but due to some issues at the crossing I went directly to Kazakhstan from China.
The border and already small problems. Walking forbidden, the only way to cross is to take a bus which runs from China to the border town in Kazakhstan. Small explanation of my hitch hiking trip guaranteed me a free ride to the town. From there I was supposed to hit the road.  

I got to Kazakhstan in July 2017. After 6 months in China, being used to the size and infrastructure of Chinese cities. Also to the language, although not great, but I could defend myself. Now here, across the border everything was new and like all the travel destinations, it takes time to learn how to function there. Suddenly my Internet support was gone (I also find out that my old Motorola phone from Latin America doesn't work in Kazakhstan, neither my Chinese one); I was back to basics - my old fashioned travelling style (paper maps, asking around, occasional wifi). 

Luckily I had a host in the biggest city in the country - Almaty. Hitchhiking was not bad, although a little weird (the first oldish guy wanted to get me married), distance covered was maybe around 300 km most of which was a desert, I had to explain I hitchhike (unlike some locals who flag down buses). Managed to get to the city, but even when I was told I was in the center I haven't noticed. Being used to Chinese mega-cities with monumental buildings and super wide streets in the city center I hoped to see something a little similar (in the end I was in the biggest Kazakh city, right?). Nope. Only 1-2 story buildings, architecturally resembling Eastern Europe. And the supermarkets! I was overwhelmed by the products they sell. Milk, yoghurts, cheeses, bread! All of which I was lacking in China. I felt like back in Europe even though it's still a couple of thousands km away. 
My host is surprised I wanted to come to this country which (in her opinion) has nothing to see nor do. She was Russian Kazakh, one of the few ethnic groups that was sent there by Stalin and others in Soviet government. Until today there's a number of Russians, Polish, Latvians, Germans etc. Different cultural background, different opinion about Kazakhstan. I guess they don't even treat it as their home country. Asking Kazakh person about his country, he would describe it in only superlatives. Asking Russian/other migrant ethnicity - quite opposite. 

I was planning to get to only a few places but this terrible promotion of the country by my host worked counterproductive on me - I was even more intrigued. I extended initial plan, decided to go up to Aralsk to see the infamous "sea", and then up north to a few Polish villages. These distances can really give you a headache. I start and my final destinations is 1800 km away. When I'm some 400 km further, next driver (mostly truck drivers, unlike China where mostly private cars give lifts) offers to take me directly to Aralsk. So here we go, over 1000 km with one lift. I ended up spending 1,5 days with the driver and sleeping in the truck (bunk bed, veery comfy -  again - unlike China where they mostly travel in pairs and the trucks are far from comfortable and spacious).  

Aralsk sort of disappointed me - I expected to see the famous ship graveyard. Turns out that the ships are long gone, being cut into pieces and sold. Some parts of old port and smaller ships still remain there. Worth going at least for the tiny museum (I was the only visitor) which shows the highlight days of Aralsk but also leaves depressing impression (I'm not very sensitive but different types of fish in formalin kinda impressed me) of what human activities lead to.  

That's for sure - Kazakhstan is not the country full of cultural and historical places. Very few UNESCO sites and a few other monuments, some summer resorts, mountains and lakes (I'm more into man-made places, so I'm not commenting on nature places). This country is about its people, the variety of ethic groups, customs, traditions, food. Their hospitality is outstanding indeed. Once I was invited to stay for a night in the village, numerous times I was treated to a lunch or dinner. 

I happened to be (for the fisr time in my life) in a country hosting EXPO. Couldn't miss the chance to check it out, though not my thing - future energy theme. It was interesting to hear most of Kazakh people complaining about the amount of money "wasted" on EXPO and government forcing everyone to visit it (on their own expense).

Quite unusual experience was to meet Polish people in that remote place. I was heading to "Polish villages" (where the majority of population is ethnically Polish but not necessarily speak Polish language) but on the way I met a couple of nuns, priest and volunteers - all from Poland working in Kazakhstan for Polish community (anything related to the church activities). In the end I visited about 4 villages in two different parts on the country.

Final part was The Polygon - nuclear bomb test site, where until 1991 Soviet government made over 456 tests. The site is located very near cities. Until today some believe deformation and cases of cancer or other genetic diseases are caused by the radiation. It's not officially proven though.  

While heading to the Chinese border I was a bit anxious already. Saturday afternoon, rumor had it the border was opened till 5 pm. I still had some 2 hours. I technically made it but crossing was already halted. I was told to come back on Monday. Perspective of 1,5 days in tiny village without even a hotel was not very appealing. I was brought to the border by two local villagers (I was very suspicious at first); after observing my misery one of them offered to host me till Monday in his house in the village (he quickly added his entire family lived there, so I had nothing to be afraid of). I didn't want to be a burden for 1,5 days but he assured it was fine. So, we came back to the village located 20 km from the main road, in a Kazakh steppe.  
The place was small indeed but big enough to have a local school. Family of my host was living in 2 neighbouring houses - one for him, his wife and children, the other for his mother and other cousins. I guess the wife was not the happiest when she saw me but after some time spent together I'd say she was OK with that. Saturday night was "party" time. With shashlyks, vodka and kumis (fermented mare's milk). I was the only woman staying on men's side; women were also present but according to Islamic custom they stick together and don't mix with men (even with a husband). Some of the men, heavily drunk (small glasses of vodka as one shot) went sleep as early as 8 pm. I got accommodated in one of 4 bedrooms, on the mattresses placed on the floor (I loved it! it reminded me of South East Asian style). 

On Sunday me and the host went to his farm in the hills to check on his workers and a horse which they reported had some problem. I was particularly excited coz the workers lived in the yurt so I had the chance to see how it looks like from the inside (for the first time in my life). Quite impressive that 3-4 people can live there for up to 3 months (with supplies delivered from time to time) and that the yurt is spacious enough to accommodate all the necessary equipment (when I was there, they were mounting a chimney). 

Impossible to forget part of the stay there was the food - mostly home made, butter, raspberry jam and sour cream were especially good. It was one of the most authentic experiences of my travels (the other one that always comes to my mind is the village stay in Tunisia) and definitely the highlight of the trip in Kazakhstan. Try to find it on the travel agency brochures ;)



















  

Saturday 3 March 2018

Modern (talking about) travelling. Made in China.

I knew one day I would come back to this country. It just happened in a bit unexpected way. Sitting in the office of my that-time job, I got a message from my old friend/work agent asking me if I want to come back to China. I was a bit skeptical knowing about difficulties to get Chinese visa etc. Anyway, time has passed a bit and with the beginning of 2017 I was decided to go. The initial plan of getting the visa in Warsaw's embassy failed (I might be black listed already), so I had to go to Hong Kong to get the papers done. A few days before flying the plan has changed again, and I was to go to Malaysia instead (from HK).

After one week in Kuala Lumpur (which for me was like one long daydream) I got my one year visa and the same day flew to Guangyuan (广元), the city which became my new home for over a year.
The beginning were hard. No Chinese spoken (I obviously forgot all I learned when I was in China for the first time; and not that it was a lot anyway), no laptop, smartphone, no friends. Total immersion in the culture - they say. Yeah, worked. After a couple of months I learned enough to briefly introduce myself and make new friends (all Chinese), become recognizable person in a few bars and a club.

Back to teaching, this time in Middle School, was smooth enough. Only the place I lived sucked big time. They put me in a hotel, just like all the previous foreign teachers of that school. Probably nobody expected an expat to have a circle of friends and a will to cook and make laundry. They were all quite surprised in the school, when I announced I definitely don't want to live in a hotel room.
Anyway, I had to struggle there for 4,5 months before my summer holiday trip to Western China and Kazakhstan.

For years I wanted to see the (in)famous city of Urumqi - the most continental city in the world. The Silk Road, desert, different culture, language and even people's appearance. Kazakhstan was wicked (positively), but that's a story for another post.

So, I come back to Guangyuan and there is it - my new apartment. Chosen from 2 options I got: totally new flat in a modern housing area with no furniture/utensils whatsoever; or cozy, wall-papered (quite rare in China, normally everything is white) 3 bedroom flat. Without a second thought I went for option two. It took me 4 days (afternoons) to clean it, get rid of unwanted stuff and buy new things. Another 2 weeks to get rid of cockroaches (it would have taken 1 hour if I had bought the spray before) and buy remaining items. Then I could say - this is my place. Invested enough of time, money and effort to claim the rights.

The first term was the culture shock period. Trying just about any new food I saw, going out like crazy, in a peak time up to 3-4 times a week. Thanks to that my nicely lost kilos came back in no time (it kinda became a tradition, gain or lose 10 kg at a time). Due to my boredom of the first months I got myself a second part-time job (which I regret doing until today). But the life was still lacking some deeper sense, the feeling of growth or improving. I got into vicious circle of parties and curing handover by another party until my summer break which saved me in a way. I had one biggish breakdown when I really wanted fuck it all and leave China. But then again, I would appreciate the fact that I was here, in this magnificent country.

Second semester was a bit similar with minor improvement of signing up for a pottery course. The winter came and the flat became unbearably cold. Again it was work-home-occasional party period. I started jogging, which was great (I even did 5 km official competition together with a local jogging/running team) but after a few month ended up in a semi major foot injury. Just before winter break I gave up running. Months of continuous work (to two school I added an english lessons in a hotel) wore me out quite a lot but then again, the break came and I could go back on the road.

This time, like each time in China, my travelling was different.
1.Winter time - loads of sweaters, socks, gloves, hat etc. The backpack was still 40 l but packed to the limit coz of the size of the clothes. Not much time for laundry (I literally got it done in a machine like 3 times in 6 weeks time; the rest was hand washing and praying it'll dry by the next day), the need of always stay in motion, especially when hitching.
2. Hitchhiking - seems like the police really enforced "no people on the highway" law. During previous trips (2 times) in China I had no problems with crossing the toll gate and sneaking on the highway (and the staff obviously must have seen me do that). This time on almost all of them I was stopped by the police or highway staff and (not)politely asked out. A few times I manage to cross, a few times I was picked up by someone just to pass the tool gate, other times I would stand before the gate.

3. Phone/Internet - like never before I realized the need of Internet while travelling in China. You just have to have a phone or other device that is constantly connected to the Internet. Otherwise your life will be veeery hard. Loads of times I would check the way to any place I wanted to, and that's just the simplest use of the Internet. From booking a hostel to buying train tickets, checking opening hours, entry tickets, all sorts of maps. Of course you could manage to do all of that asking people or going directly to the places but you would waste a looot of time. The size of the cities may mean that what looks close on the map in fact is 2-3 km away. And you don't want to walk (or take a but if you know which line and stop - again, the Internet has it all) these 3 km just to find out that the hostel is already full. You wouldn't like lining up at the train station for 20-30 min, reach the window and hear 没票(no tickets). Same (or maybe the most important actually) goes for directions. You can ask people, but a lot of them are not that familiar with the city or they wouldn't know but still would point some random direction (to avoid saying "I don't know").
4. Language. The first time I travelled in China with 0 Chinese. Honestly I don't know how I did that. So many times I would be totally lost if not the ability of communication in Chinese which I have now. So many times I would be taken or directed to wrong places if I couldn't explain what I wanted. Reading major public signs also helps hell of a lot (finding a hostel, which has only Chinese characters; otherwise it looks just like any other building; reading signs on the highway)

This trip was expensive coz of an extra cost of side trip to North Korea (about it in other post). Basically 40 days travelling in China cost me the same as 4 days trip to Korea :P
Got back to my flat - all as nice as I left it, and decided to do something productive this (probably last) semester. More online learning, sports, change of diet (I'm fed up with most of the local food anyway). And I still absolutely love China!