Friday 30 October 2020

afghanistan pt. II (winter 2020)

Guess who's back?

Just realized my last post was nearly a year ago. So many things have happened ever since, it would be impossible to mention all of it. As I've decided to focus mostly on Afghanistan, I will skip the time I spent in Pakistan (March 2020 – end of July 2020). 

Kabul in winter

After a sudden leave from Afghanistan in December 2019 I returned 2 month later, jobless, free, happy and ready enough to dedicate remaining time on my visa (and additional one-month visa, that was not totally legal to get) to explore as much of the country as I could. 

First week I'd stayed in my beloved Kabul, visiting not many places but spending a lot of time with previously known people and meeting new ones who eventually became a Kabul Crew. 

I made a solo trip to Panjsher (Shah Masood province, just 2 h away from Kabul), which stirred a minor scandal among local authorities. I'd arrived alone, in a shared taxi, with no SOP for foreigners in Afghan (aka bodyguard, private vehicle, interpreter, etc). Had to explain all of this behaviour during an hour long kind-of-interrogation (nobody got angry, rather surprised of my way of travelling). Saw the famous Masood's Mausoleum, shed a tear over the life of this person (not glorifying anyone, did the same in front of Raziq's grave). 

I went to Kunar, to visit a friend whom I've met months before in Kabul. Stayed there for a couple of days, travelled to a few districts, Afghan-Pakistan border (which turned out to be a picnic place for many locals), heard a few Kalashikov shots (and night shooting from a neighbouring village, which was a hiding place for Daesh fighters). Even slept on a Kalashnikov (haven't realized until the day after, and then understood why the pillows were so hard). 


Herat Citadel
Months later I saw a documentary presenting Kunar as a Taliban infested and ultra-dangerous district. Well, what I have seen was a green and semi-mountainous place with a lot of valleys, rivers and somehow conservative Pashtun community (very few women on the streets and if so, only in burqa or abaya). 
Afghan Banksy? 

Herat glass makers 

The first hours/days there were pretty tense because of my bad idea about Pashtun people, somehow imposed on my by others who probably have never been really exposed to Pashtun culture and people. Further on, my image of this ethnic group drastically changed after spending more than 2 months among Pashtuns in Pakistan. Radical, but very hospitable and guest-oriented people. Till now I am quite ashamed I haven't learned Pashto language. 

Then, there was Herat. A city known by me from "Thousand splendid suns" by Khaled Hosseini. Historical city, for unknown reason often ignored by travellers who prefer going (flying) to Kandahar. I stayed around 10 days in Herat, tried to see as many famous places as possible. Got into the Citadel on a ticket for locals (30 Afg vs. 500 Afs for foreigners). Unfortunately I broke my rule and took a plane from Kabul to Herat (tried to go by land but the bus drivers would let a single woman go), and then came back flying too (@%$###%!). 



Masood's Mausoleum






Afghan-Pak border



Mulla's Omar Mosque
Final trip of the winter "holiday in Afghanistan" was Kandahar. I just tried to visit as many places as possible and I happen to find a CouchSurfer over there who helped a lot with getting a ticket (which as previously mentioned was impossible to buy by a single female passenger). We made the burqa trick and I quickly sneaked into the bus (so called 404 or maybe that was 580 – the newest version of coaches in Afghanistan) directly from the friend's car, who dropped me to the bus station (I went there one time on my own, during day time, and immediately became notorious; so I preferred not showing my face to anyone there). 8 hours night ride on the bumpy road, 2 mg of clonazepam to fall asleep and stay normal (and I was on apparently the most dangerous road in Afghanistan), one 10 min Taliban checkpoint (a guy comes inside the bus for a second, checks who's there and leaves, probably to collect the "fee" from the driver). When the bus stopped for the checkpoint I was just annoyed because of waking up and everything happened so quickly that I didn't even have time to be nervous). Got to Kandahar at 4:30 am and being totally ashamed I called and obviously woke up my CS host. Still in burqa I found a Dari speaker who explained the address to a Pashto speaking driver. Night, empty roads, GPS suddenly not working, me having no idea where I am or where I am going, just left everything in the hands of destiny. What happened in the end? I safely arrived the the destination, after looking for a alley for quite some time, got picked up by my host and crashed for a few hours.
 




I stayed with the family, women only (the host was mostly at work), saw and learned the insides of the Pashtun house life.

I went out (in abaya – long black frock and face covering cloth, with only eyes visible), to see the historical city centre; mostly mosques, bazaar, general Raziq's Mausoleum, got a few "souvenirs", got mistaken for being Iranian (a flattering thing to me, as my Dari that time wasn't so good), participated in the first this kind of gathering in Kandahar or probably the whole country – IT/Google related meet up for students of Kandahar University, where girls were also giving speeches (which is quite unlikely in Pashtun communities), and Dari, Pashto and English were being used. 


    The places I've seen is one thing. The more important to me, since many years back are the people on the way. The stories, funny ones, sad ones, irritating ones – I can't even put in the words. The amount of help, support and kindness I've received can never be expressed by words. And despite Afghanistan being a war zone for more than 40 years, its people are still amazingly hospitable and friendly. It's not the hatred towards foreigners, it's just bad experience and lack of contact with them. Same as Europeans or other Westerners tend to be afraid of Muslim people, basing their knowledge on media and its (often fabricated or exaggerated) propaganda. The people I've met, even the ones who have never even seen a foreigner were curious, sometimes shy, sometimes awkward but never rude or aggressive. 

 Many asked and still ask me, why I am in Afghanistan. And I still reply the same thing as I did since I came here the first time. To see this mysterious, hidden and undiscovered place. Understand its people, history and culture and share the positivity with other who are interested in Afghanistan, have wrong idea or lack any idea about it. 




Wednesday 6 November 2019

how to be sick in afghanistan.

My first cold/tiredness/being sick of food/lack of fruit/leaving all the pills (I'm not sure which one is the reason, they might be combined) is in progress. Having self-help coded by being raised in Poland (you don't go to doctors there unless you're REALLY sick), I've started popping Vit C pills and sleeping 15 h a day. It's the third day now and I've decided to try the last resort - antibiotics (no need for prescription, blessings on Afghanistan's medicament policy). Cancelled helluvalot classes coz I simply couldn't get up and couldn't picture myself in the classroom bubbling for one hour.
As always in a situation like that, all I want is to go to a warm place where somebody will take care of me (in other words - neverland) or to die.
All the darkest thoughts are being created in this state of mind so I really hope it's just a common cold and it'll go away after another day or two.
The weather doesn't help, as it's been snowing for the last few days (in the mornings/nights only, but still) and it's freaking cold outside. Inside the stoves have been already installed although they are operating only at night or mornings, when the cold is the harshest. For instance, at the moment it's around 3 degrees outside and the night will be -12. The altitude (2800 m) adds to the dryness and cold. So staying in a warm room is not an option, either... 
From the more positive side; the local radio from the center of the province came to Lal come days ago and insisted on an interview with me, and my work here. Firstly, I refused (both, don't want to make this volunteering any big deal, and for safety reasons - don't reveal your identity or location to masses in Afghanistan), but then (being under slight pressure) agreed. The result was a lousy article with false statements (quite common in this field, however it was my first encounter with journalists and I didn't know somebody can lie that much), such as "the Farsi words I know are suicide and explosion (wtf?!)", "I've been in Ghor for 5 months", "I have brown eyes and green eyes" (lol, points for the vision of an eagle).
Above all, they have posted probably the worst photos of all the shooting (thanx!).
I'll post a link to it, although I don't recommend reading :P

Dari:
https://swn.af/Article.aspx?a=51033&fbclid=IwAR1Mp94bmcoPnM1RLpw5T96OfAE5XZDvEY1X3FCPHyixZRVp3hQEa5oiXy4

English:
https://swn.af/english/Article.aspx?a=51040

Tuesday 29 October 2019

Don't you ever go there!


   
So, Lal is safe (though some people still feel uneasy after 6-7 pm), but the neighbouring district and the one after that - being the center of the province are a big NO-NO to go. Recently (say, 2 months ago) the is an intense Taliban activity. Fights with the army and checkpoints installed by the terrorists are common. The hook is that the road is the only road leading to the center of the province and also to the next one - Herat (though, a few choose to travel by road there; because of the danger as well as the length of the journey - from Lal it takes 2 days to reach Herat). 
    The district following Lal, called Dawlat Yar is the Taliban hub (according to the locals and this is the trickiest part of the journey to Chaghcharan - the capital of Ghor) and checkpoints are frequent there. The journey by falancoch (Toyota van accommodating about a dozen of passengers)  - the only available form of public transportation takes around 2 hours and another 1.5 h to the provincial capital.      

    It's a dirt road all until reaching the city of Chaghcharan but not as bad as one might expect, so the journey goes pretty smooth. 
Dawlat Yar is nothing but a small village, probably even smaller than Lal. The van doesn't stop there unless some passengers need to be dropped or picked up. 
Some people got got down along the way to a villages hidden between hills. Some people (as usual) happen to be speaking some English (there was even an English teacher from some remote village travelling in the van). 

    Going there was a crazy idea, I KNOW. Going there was potential asking for death or in the best case for big trouble. That's why I didn't tell anybody where I was going. Partially because I didn't want to make people worry and partially for what everyone says - safety reasons (don't inform everybody about your current location or where are you heading). 
    I was one of the 2 women in the car. When I started to put on my chodri/burqa (without covering the face) I was told not to do so until we reach Dawlat Yar (the teacher told me he would let me know when we reach the dangerous area - in the end, he never told me). On the way we saw 2 places of recent land mine explosions. Quite usual thing in the country. 

    In the meantime, I called a friend who had other friends in Ghor (that's how locals call Chaghcharan), and asked for accommodation. That's the beauty of Afghanistan. You can never be homeless. There is always somebody who knows somebody, and in the worst case, you can just stay in some tea house (cheap option) or a hotel. Actually, I was even invited to go to Herat province by the guys sitting in front of me and stay in their house. 10-20 min conversation is enough to become somebody's guest. I quickly found a place to stay (in the end it was 3 options) and got picked up by a friend of a friend while eating lunch with a guy whom I'd just met in the van. 

    Chaghcharan is not the city full of ancient attractions and sites. It's a regular Afghan city with some miserable remains of old fortress and Taliban infested village around the city (as the locals say). Some of the people on the streets must have been Taliban but during the day you can't tell who's who. There is a representative mosque, some statues (one being the small copy of famous Jam Minaret - UNESCO site in Ghor). Other things are just a regular city sites such as street markets, shops, houses, offices behind barbed wire and security checks, etc. 
    Long ago I stopped looking for a "beautiful" tourist attractions in the cities I visit, so the best way for me to spend the day was to walk around the streets, chat and joke (as much as my Dari and body language allowed) with vendors, and attract general attention of the people (in the peak moment there were around 30 people surrounding me, mostly kids who would walk behind and beside me). A few people demanded a photo with me, which I turned into getting a photo for myself (taken by my camera/phone). 

    The thing you want the least in Afghanistan is a crowd around you (if you are a foreigner, that is), so I was told to leave the place as soon as the number of people exceeded the “normal” amount. I also stopped caring about cultural “do’s” and “don’ts” (not the smartest move, I know, but let me be me), so I would stop every now and then and chat with different people (kids, street vendors, police officers), in most cases causing outbursts of laughter (thanks to trying to tell jokes in my Dari; which the people claim is good but I know they just want to flatter me).
   I got some unexpected souvenirs (key chain with an Afghan flag and map; 2 for 30 Afs), a passport cover saying “Passport of Islamic Republic of Afghanistan” (which I swear I will constantly use), tried probably the worst ice cream I’ve had so far in the country, saw a bunch of sheep/goats heads for sale (and tried asking where is the rest of the animal’s body, using my body language), bought a nice pair of winter pajama trousers (after around 20 min of bargaining and provoking another laughs) which I would later loose somewhere (the mystery remains unsolved), went to one of the “no-go” places around the village to see the remains of a “castle” (the place notorious for being a spot of killing somebody in the past, and a current location of hashish smokers and other gatherings), and even there I bumped into somebody who could speak fluent English (after 2.5 years in China I am still astonished by these kind of encounters), met the person responsible for women affairs in the city/district and got to know a lot of nasty stories/details of life of women in Afghanistan, especially in Chaghcharan.
   
Despite the city having not much to offer, my initial plan to stay one day got changed into 2 day long visit. Somehow the governor of the city found out I was around, and because it was a Teachers’ Day in Afghanistan I was spontaneously invited to a ceremony in one of the public high schools (dozens of photos and TV cameras on a full blast – not good for me, but again, I don’t mind/care). I had to pretend to be a foreign professional coming to support Afghan Education System (the latter one is kinda true actually).
    I was constantly with somebody beside me (not my choice of course, I’d do things differently if I was on my own, but on the other hand I didn’t know the city so it saw smarter to be around some locals), but still enjoyed the time. The guy with me was super chilled any many times was standing somewhere on a side while I was chatting or buying stuff. 

    1.5 days in the city was a time spent with different people (“new” friends and people on the streets), listening to (not always nice) stories and visiting a place considered a cave of lions. Honestly I haven’t noticed much difference between Chaghcharan and other places I’ve seen in Afghanistan. People wouldn’t pay too much attention to me (I’d say they were rather surprised to see a whitey on the streets, but having a local dude beside definitely helped in being left in peace).
    The way back was also arranged by the same transport company I used to get to the city. I was wearing burqa when entering the van (just coz I didn’t know who was travelling there), and didn’t remove it until we passed Dawlat Yar. Nobody talked to me, although I had a guy sitting next to me (got ignored by him, too). Only when I removed the burqa, the avalanche of questions fell.
   
Revealing the real trip destination caused a stir among my co-workers and “boss”. Every smile was hiding the anger inside. Yet another time I (potentially) risked my life or (IMO) I showed that positive thinking causes “miracles”. Call it being naïve and careless. J     



Saturday 19 October 2019

Bamiyan, Buddhas and all.


   
   
    Bamyan is the place of magnificent cliffs, with loads of caves and niches, which surround the town, lots of beautiful natural locations, green fields, waterfalls, and canyons. One can go hiking and camping there. The activities which are definitely not very popular among locals nor foreign tourists.      The biggest attraction that makes foreigners and locals come there are the niches which used to be the place of one of the world’s biggest Buddha statues. Unfortunately, they were tragically destroyed in 2001 by the Taliban who used explosives and rocket launchers to destroy this ancient Buddhist architectural treasures.
   
Two massive holes are all what’s left of those statues, yet still they attract thousands. They are locally called “Buddhas”, even though nothing is left of the real creation.
Bamiyan town, as well as the entire province under the same name, is considered safe and free of terrorist threats. Foreigners are very common there, hence no surprising looks from locals, who can even communicate in fairly good English (shopkeepers and people related to tourism; don’t count on it on the local bazaar J ).

    The town is small, yet equipped in all the more-than-basic-commodities such as running water and constant electricity (unlike for example Lal). Local bazaar is full of seasonal fruit and vegetables (in summer), restaurants offer local food and ice-cream (unfortunately Mazari sheer-yakh cannot be found there), and various hostels and tea houses accommodate travellers. Starting from around $10 per night for a proper hotel room to a few dollars for a place in a common room in a tea house/local restaurant which at nights transforms into a dormitory (in fact, you only pay for the food you order there, sleeping is free; one of the places like this is located in the van station area).
   
Bamiyan can be reached by 30 minutes flights from Kabul ($99, run by Kam Air company); 3 times a week, or by car (shared taxi or a van). The second option will never be recommended by any local as even they themselves are always stressed about the trip. From the two existing roads – through Parwan and Wardak provinces, the better option is the former one that is considered “safer”. Wardak is a literally full of Taliban checkpoints, on which they usually look for government officials, army members, etc. Recently Samad Amiri, the head of independent human rights organization was kidnapped and later killed in that area.
   
To get from Kabul to Bamiyan you can find shared taxis (up to 5 people inside) in the Kote Sanghi area of Kabul (they leave in the morning, so better be there around 6-7 am), the cost is 600 Afs per person and it takes around 5-6 hours to come to the town. Alternatively you can choose to go in a van (locally known as falancoch) through Wardak, which obviously is not recommended at all.

Though I personally haven’t visited surroundings of Bamiyan, there are many places of interest, both natural and historical. The one, definitely must-see (that one I did visit) is located 80 km from the city – called Band-e-Amir. It is the first National Park of Afghanistan where magnificent lakes and water pools are located. With crystal blue water, waterfalls and surrounding cliffs the place is breathtaking.      You can go there from Bamiyan by taxi and pay 200 Afs an entry fee to the park. There are facilities to eat and stay for a night, too. Though the place looks perfect for swimming (the water is the bluest blue), a few decide to do so stating that it’s very dangerous and deep (saying “I can’t swim” in the other words?). Instead you can hire boats or water bicycles to roam around the lake.


    I and my friend are working on a website about tourism in Afghanistan. Though it’s still under construction you can already find more objective point of view about the country and travelling in here, than my writings on this blog (as most of the things I do/did are not very recommendable).




  

Monday 14 October 2019

behind the atomic curtain.




    It probably is the most isolated and closed country of the world. The place, where in 21st century there is no public access to the Internet, TV sets and mobile phones are still not very common. The time has stopped there around 30 years ago. On the other hand, it is one of the safest place for tourists, because as being one you will not be left alone for a lone stroll in the city and moving around the country is often accompanied by soldiers. Individual travel is impossible. It doesn’t stop thousands of tourists from various countries (mostly China) who every year visit this hermetic and the most controlled country on Earth – North Korea.
    When you think about Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), you probably think “nuclear missiles, extreme regime and poverty”. It’s definitely not the most common tourist destination but at the same time DPRK is not listed as one of the least visited places in the world. In mid-50’ the first Korean tour agency was established, which until today arrange trips for Chinese and other tourists. Entering the country is very much possible (some people think it’s not; the problematic nationalities are American and South Korean), and easy.   

    Currently there are many agencies which arrange trips to North Korea. They have a variety of options: from one day trip across the Chinese border, to two weeks tour which allows exploration of the majority of the country. No need to mention those trips are not meant to be cheap holiday. The most popular is 4 day long trip which costs around $750 for non-Chinese tourist (they have it cheaper). The price includes pretty much everything in pretty much the best places in the country – representative hotels and restaurants, visiting showroom-supermarkets (everywhere you and your travel mates will be the only people present). Going to North Korea you will only see what the government what you to see – the most beautiful and attractive places. All the rest (the real life, that is), is carefully hidden from the sight.
    We go in 5 people group – surprisingly small. Usually one group consists of dozen or more people, but since it’s winter, less people are interested. 4 Chinese and me. The plan is 4 days and 3 nights in North Korea, which in reality are limited to 2 and a half days of sightseeing and 1 and a half day of travel. We take a train from Chinese border town of Dandong to the Korean capital – Pyongyang. Before boarding the train travel agent gives us the passports (with individual visas inside; very unusual sight as most of the tourist in big groups get one group visa on a separated paper)  and gives crucial hints what to do and what not to do in the country. Forbidden is taking photos of soldiers and army buildings, pointing at pictures of Korean leaders and taking photos where the leaders are not fully exposed. There is a total prohibition of making jokes and laughing at anything coming from Korea. Best option is to not ask any uncomfortable questions.
   
There are many North Koreans in the train we board from China but nobody gives us the second look, which is as a bit odd for being a foreigner in such place and not attract any attention. In just about 10 minutes after we leave China and cross the bridge over Yalu River we arrive to the Korean side where for some reason 2 hour long stop is needed. We all expect detailed luggage, phones and cameras check (there are many items and photos which cannot be taken into the country), but finally the control turns out to be very brief check of bags and signing immigration documents. In the evening we arrive to Pyongyang where we are greeted by two tour guides – one for Chinese tourists, one English speaking for me.
    After arrival we don’t have much time to waste so we directly go for a diner to one of the most luxurious restaurants in the capital. It can easily capacitate dozens of people but, as in many other places visited by us, we are the only guests. Out 47-floor hotel has all the modern commodities (swimming pool, conference hall, and the possibility of sending emails ) for its guests. There are no people, though, to use them. Those kind of places are unreachable for a regular citizen, who doesn’t even have enough money to buy basic food (if there is any available at all). Only the elite people, government officials, can enjoy the delicious food there or night life activities.
   
The second day of the trip the plan starts early in the morning. At 7:30 am we leave the hotel and we get the first day light glimpses of the city. Typical social realism architecture – massive concrete buildings, unbelievably wide streets. From time to time we pass huge statues of national heroes and other praise the revolution, the Party and the leaders. Always present elements of the city are propaganda quotations of Kim Ir Sen and those encouraging the citizens too fight with western imperialism. The lands out of Pyongyang are never-ending crop fields, and not so common, located for from the main road, villages.    
    After the breakfast we go to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) – the dispute border between North and South Korea. According to the tour guide’s words it is the most dangerous place in the world. During 3 hour long journey we got passed by just a few busses and almost none private car. There are more cars in Pyongyang but it’s still a far cry from the regular traffic of other countries. Most of the people use bikes or walk. In the capital there is a metro system and other public transportation means such as trolleybus and bus. The latter seems to be lacking basing on the long queues on the bus stops.  
    The citizens strongly limited when it comes to travelling. In the capital only the selected, elite people can live. The rest – 85% of the population live in towns and villages. There are many checkpoint on the roads to control the validity of travel permits for those who want to go to another town. Those who can’t afford the bus need to hitchhike, use a bike or simply walk dozens of kilometers. 

    In the city taking photos is generally allowed (respecting those few previously mentioned rules), in the DMZ you can use your camera only in a selected spots. In the zone there are more propaganda shops with souvenirs and snacks from Korea. Being in those kind of shops is one of a very few chances to shop in the country since the regular stores are unavailable for foreigners, who can’t even use the local currency. Most of the stores and restaurants we can see from the street have covered windows. In some of them you can see only the very basic products but there is almost nobody shopping there. In a few tourist shops you can buy exactly the same products: Korean postal stamps, country leaders’ biographies, flags, North Korean maps – with a territory including the South Korean one. Everybody in the country “knows” that there is only one Korea and the current division is American’s –their biggest enemy - fault.
   
During the visit in DMZ we are accompanied by two soldiers who are tour guides at the same time. They explain the history of the Korean War (1950 – 1953) and the final agreement. It seems like the history presented by the guides is “slightly” different to the one from history books found outside the country. We hear about terrible Americans who attacked North Korea in 1950 and about a heroic defense by the country’s citizens and finally, the first in the history, defeating American army. In fact, it was North Korea which first attacked the south and the treaty was signed partially because of the death of Joseph Stalin, the change of American president and cessation of hostilities on both fronts.
   
Every North Korean citizen from since childhood is told to hate the USA. It’s USA which is responsible for DPRK’s poverty (which is partially correct, because of the economic sanctions), always present political unrest, war threats, and the wish to control the world. Every Korean citizen has no doubt in the strength and power of their country which, in case of war, would easily defeat the USA and its allies. Watching local North Korean TV, we hear the news from other countries which always show the wars, poverty, destruction and other negativities. The information comes from Middle Easter and Asian countries. The only footages from Europe, Canada or USA are an old documents about scientific inventions (from ’90) or programs to study English (shown in a form of instruction of operating machinery, full of technical vocabulary, not necessarily useful in daily life). On the other hand propaganda films show happy and peaceful life in North Korea, shops full of products and prosperous factories and companies.
    After coming back from DMZ we visit the city of Kaesong, which is one of the UNESCO sites in Korea (for example former Confucius Academy Songgyungwan, which currently is transformed into a museum). The other place to visit by out group is the birth place of the President of Korea – Kim Ir Sen. It’s a village house in untouched condition. Probably because you can only visit/see them for the outside, without touching anything.

    For the end of the day we got a new attraction – a subway ride. Among dozens of functioning stations, tourists an only stop at two, which are the most representative and definitely not the deepest ones. Korean metro system is famous for being the deepest in the world because it also serves as an atomic bomb shelter. From the other source I am told that only these two station are available for tourists because they are the most beautiful and lightened (the tour guide claims that every single station is decorated in different mosaics representing core values of Korean citizens).
    Near many of the houses we can see solar panels, which, according to the tour guide are the part of Korean policy of self-dependence (North Korea doesn’t need to establish economical connections with other countries as it produces everything what’s needed). In fact, the solar energy for many is the only way to lighten their homes due to very common power shortcuts in the city. There is a famous satellite photos showing North Korea as a dark spot surrounded with brightly lighted South Korea and China. Pyongyang at night looks like partially abandoned city. Sporadic light comes from governmental buildings, lights for the statues of the leaders – Kim Ir Sen and Kim Jong Il or the flats of those who can afford the others ways of getting power. Villages often lack even the electric lines.
   
For the third day of the trip to Hyangsan mountains is planned. It’s a famous tourist attraction. We see one of the most representative Buddhist temples or the place where all the gifts for North Korean government are kept. It’s a highly secured monumental building which houses more than 160 rooms full of presents from all three leaders of North Korea. Swords, vases, sculptures, paitings, plants and animals (kept in botanic and zoological gardens), and even an automatic weapons and a laptop – are all gifts from almost every world country. The gifts from Poland are crystal vases presented by Wojciech Jaruzelski and Edward Gierek. 
    After we get back to Pyongyang we visit one of the public schools, where we participate in a student’s art performance and have a chance to ask some questions. Some as for many other parts of the trip, you are not really sure, if what you see is authentic or yet another arranged actors show. On the Internet, there are many examples (videos, hidden camera footages) of “actors” on the streets who play roles of pedestrians, citizens or even doctors in fake hospitals.
    The last day of our trip is a quick visit to the main city square and passing by the monumental statues of Kim Ir Sen and Kim Jong Il. In the city we can see people preparing for the 70th anniversary of the creation of Korean army (8th February). Attendance in speeches and celebrations is obligatory. Who doesn’t show up is immediately considered an enemy of the Party and most likely sent to a labour camp. Similar punishment is implemented on everyone who shows any sort of dissatisfaction about the country. In the DPRK there is a law known as guilt by association (by being a family member of the criminal). It mean that not only the actual person who breaks the law gets punished but also his family; offspring up to the 3rd generation. This kind of law successfully discourages from any sort of law breaking as it could mean death of the family of the victim.
    Before the noon we board the same train which goes back to Dandong, China. Next 8 hours spent inside and nervous waiting for the border control of photos and things brought back from the country. Yet, once again we are don’t get any serious treatment and after filling up the exit form we are ready to come back to China.

     After leaving the train station in Dandong everything which was unavailable in North Korea is there. Bright neons, lights, loads of cars, people in different coloured clothes, shops and supermarkets, food stalls. Something, which is taken for granted in China, in almost impossible to get for North Koreans. The latter ones still lack the basic things like running water, electricity and food.
    What is also quite significant in North Korea is the fact that despite tragic situation in the country, people from the elite lead totally normal lives there. Fun parks, children playgrounds, museums, libraries and cinemas. There is even newly built ski resort and aqua park. Luxurious cars rarely seen on the streets of Pyongyang also belong to those from the elite.
    Every year the number of defectors from North Korea increases. They take a huge risk crossing the border river and getting to China and then to the Embassy of South Korea in Thailand where they can apply for the refugee status. Then they got help to start a new life in the country. Thanks to those people we can find out all of is impossible to see in North Korea by an outsider; all of what the North Korean government tries to hide. On the other hand, increasing number of smuggled western and South Korean films, TV shows and stories of those who have been out of the country start to slowly open eyes of the North Koreans and make them question the reliability and power of the Party. The knowledge is the strongest weapon. Hopefully the time when North Koreans will have to strength and opportunity to use it…