Tuesday 29 October 2019

Don't you ever go there!


   
So, Lal is safe (though some people still feel uneasy after 6-7 pm), but the neighbouring district and the one after that - being the center of the province are a big NO-NO to go. Recently (say, 2 months ago) the is an intense Taliban activity. Fights with the army and checkpoints installed by the terrorists are common. The hook is that the road is the only road leading to the center of the province and also to the next one - Herat (though, a few choose to travel by road there; because of the danger as well as the length of the journey - from Lal it takes 2 days to reach Herat). 
    The district following Lal, called Dawlat Yar is the Taliban hub (according to the locals and this is the trickiest part of the journey to Chaghcharan - the capital of Ghor) and checkpoints are frequent there. The journey by falancoch (Toyota van accommodating about a dozen of passengers)  - the only available form of public transportation takes around 2 hours and another 1.5 h to the provincial capital.      

    It's a dirt road all until reaching the city of Chaghcharan but not as bad as one might expect, so the journey goes pretty smooth. 
Dawlat Yar is nothing but a small village, probably even smaller than Lal. The van doesn't stop there unless some passengers need to be dropped or picked up. 
Some people got got down along the way to a villages hidden between hills. Some people (as usual) happen to be speaking some English (there was even an English teacher from some remote village travelling in the van). 

    Going there was a crazy idea, I KNOW. Going there was potential asking for death or in the best case for big trouble. That's why I didn't tell anybody where I was going. Partially because I didn't want to make people worry and partially for what everyone says - safety reasons (don't inform everybody about your current location or where are you heading). 
    I was one of the 2 women in the car. When I started to put on my chodri/burqa (without covering the face) I was told not to do so until we reach Dawlat Yar (the teacher told me he would let me know when we reach the dangerous area - in the end, he never told me). On the way we saw 2 places of recent land mine explosions. Quite usual thing in the country. 

    In the meantime, I called a friend who had other friends in Ghor (that's how locals call Chaghcharan), and asked for accommodation. That's the beauty of Afghanistan. You can never be homeless. There is always somebody who knows somebody, and in the worst case, you can just stay in some tea house (cheap option) or a hotel. Actually, I was even invited to go to Herat province by the guys sitting in front of me and stay in their house. 10-20 min conversation is enough to become somebody's guest. I quickly found a place to stay (in the end it was 3 options) and got picked up by a friend of a friend while eating lunch with a guy whom I'd just met in the van. 

    Chaghcharan is not the city full of ancient attractions and sites. It's a regular Afghan city with some miserable remains of old fortress and Taliban infested village around the city (as the locals say). Some of the people on the streets must have been Taliban but during the day you can't tell who's who. There is a representative mosque, some statues (one being the small copy of famous Jam Minaret - UNESCO site in Ghor). Other things are just a regular city sites such as street markets, shops, houses, offices behind barbed wire and security checks, etc. 
    Long ago I stopped looking for a "beautiful" tourist attractions in the cities I visit, so the best way for me to spend the day was to walk around the streets, chat and joke (as much as my Dari and body language allowed) with vendors, and attract general attention of the people (in the peak moment there were around 30 people surrounding me, mostly kids who would walk behind and beside me). A few people demanded a photo with me, which I turned into getting a photo for myself (taken by my camera/phone). 

    The thing you want the least in Afghanistan is a crowd around you (if you are a foreigner, that is), so I was told to leave the place as soon as the number of people exceeded the “normal” amount. I also stopped caring about cultural “do’s” and “don’ts” (not the smartest move, I know, but let me be me), so I would stop every now and then and chat with different people (kids, street vendors, police officers), in most cases causing outbursts of laughter (thanks to trying to tell jokes in my Dari; which the people claim is good but I know they just want to flatter me).
   I got some unexpected souvenirs (key chain with an Afghan flag and map; 2 for 30 Afs), a passport cover saying “Passport of Islamic Republic of Afghanistan” (which I swear I will constantly use), tried probably the worst ice cream I’ve had so far in the country, saw a bunch of sheep/goats heads for sale (and tried asking where is the rest of the animal’s body, using my body language), bought a nice pair of winter pajama trousers (after around 20 min of bargaining and provoking another laughs) which I would later loose somewhere (the mystery remains unsolved), went to one of the “no-go” places around the village to see the remains of a “castle” (the place notorious for being a spot of killing somebody in the past, and a current location of hashish smokers and other gatherings), and even there I bumped into somebody who could speak fluent English (after 2.5 years in China I am still astonished by these kind of encounters), met the person responsible for women affairs in the city/district and got to know a lot of nasty stories/details of life of women in Afghanistan, especially in Chaghcharan.
   
Despite the city having not much to offer, my initial plan to stay one day got changed into 2 day long visit. Somehow the governor of the city found out I was around, and because it was a Teachers’ Day in Afghanistan I was spontaneously invited to a ceremony in one of the public high schools (dozens of photos and TV cameras on a full blast – not good for me, but again, I don’t mind/care). I had to pretend to be a foreign professional coming to support Afghan Education System (the latter one is kinda true actually).
    I was constantly with somebody beside me (not my choice of course, I’d do things differently if I was on my own, but on the other hand I didn’t know the city so it saw smarter to be around some locals), but still enjoyed the time. The guy with me was super chilled any many times was standing somewhere on a side while I was chatting or buying stuff. 

    1.5 days in the city was a time spent with different people (“new” friends and people on the streets), listening to (not always nice) stories and visiting a place considered a cave of lions. Honestly I haven’t noticed much difference between Chaghcharan and other places I’ve seen in Afghanistan. People wouldn’t pay too much attention to me (I’d say they were rather surprised to see a whitey on the streets, but having a local dude beside definitely helped in being left in peace).
    The way back was also arranged by the same transport company I used to get to the city. I was wearing burqa when entering the van (just coz I didn’t know who was travelling there), and didn’t remove it until we passed Dawlat Yar. Nobody talked to me, although I had a guy sitting next to me (got ignored by him, too). Only when I removed the burqa, the avalanche of questions fell.
   
Revealing the real trip destination caused a stir among my co-workers and “boss”. Every smile was hiding the anger inside. Yet another time I (potentially) risked my life or (IMO) I showed that positive thinking causes “miracles”. Call it being naïve and careless. J     



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