Po prawie roku od ostatniego pobytu w Tajlandii, w marcu 2013 znowu odwiedzilismy ten kraj (to byly ostatnie tygodnie wspolnego wyjazdu z D.). Tym razem w celach prawie ze biznesowych - musialam wyrobic sobie nowy paszport z powodu braku stron wizowych. Na 60-dniowej tajskiej wizie przekroczylismy poludniowa granice i od razu skierowalismy sie na Bangkok. Autostopem zajelo to 2,5 dnia (dzieki kierowcy, ktory podwiazl nas ponad 500 km), wiec wyladowalismy w stolicy tuz przed Wielkanoca. Skladanie podania o nowy paszport: 15 minut, cena: 370 zl, czas oczekiwania: 6 tyg (!). Nie powiem, ze ucieszylam sie wiadomoscia o przymusowym ponad miesiecznym pobycie w kraju, w ktorym rok wczesniej spedzilam juz 5 tygodni. Nie wiedzialam, co robic, gdzie jechac. Od jakiegos czasu mialam pomysl na zaszycie sie w jakims buddyjskim klasztorze na kilka tygodni, wiec nadarzyla sie dobra okazja.
Po jednym dniu spedzonym w Bangkoku, ruszylismy do maista Pattaya, ktore okazalo sie centrum lokalnej i miedzynarodowej prostytucji. Widoki niezbyt przyjemne, za to wlasnie tam zrealizowalam swoje male marzenie sprzed wielu lat - nurkowanie. Nie wiedzialam, czy mi sie spodoba, wiec zrobilam tylko 2 probne nurkowania (zamiast bardzo popularnego kursu open water) za ok 320 zl. Wrazenia niesamowite! Rafa nie powalala (nie to, co Koh Tao, czy Australia), ale bylo zdecydowanie warto. Cos, co z pewnoscia chce kiedys powtorzyc.
Po Pattayi skierowalismy sie do Chiang Mai, gdzie w miedzyczasie znalazlam 10-dniowy kurs medytacji w buddyjskim klasztorze. Powtorka z Indii, ale w zdecydowanie zmienionej, mocno religijnej oprawie. Inny rodzaj medytacji (siedzaca i chodzaca), zakwaterowanie na terenie buddysjkiego manasteru, jedzenie, modlitwy z mnichami, dozwolone tylko biale stroje itp. Wszystko skladalo sie na niesamowity, spirytualistyczny klimat. Sama medytacja bylo o wiele "luzniejsza", niz ta z Indii. Nie bylo przymusu siedzenia na zbiorowych sejsjach, kazdy mial duza swobode, co zdecydowanie oznaczalo, ze byli tam ludzie, ktorzy naprawde chcieli to robic, z wlasnej woli i motywacji. Koncowy rezultat jak najbardziej pozytywny, dajacy wrazenie, ze taka medytacje mozna cwiczyc codziennie i nawet kilkanascie minut jest bardzo pomocne.
Ostatniego dnia poczulam sie slabo. Goraczka, zimne poty, czyli typowe objawy zaziebienia (a w tropikach tez malarii, dengi i calej masy innych chorob). Przez 4 dni bralam paracetamol liczac, ze samo przejdzie. Po wyjsciu z kursu od razu razem z D. pojechalismy do domu Maliki, zgodnie z zaakceptowanym wczesniej planem (poznalam Malike z ogloszenia, w ktrym szukala nauczyciela angielskiego dla jej 22-letniego syna, bez zaplaty, ale z darmowym mieszkaniem i wyzywieniem; zgodzila sie przyjac mnie i D., pomimo, ze uczyc mialam tylko ja). W malym pokoju, w ktorym mieszkalam razem z D. od pierwszych chwil zaczal sie kociol. Moje fatalne samopoczucie plus kolejne klotnie i potyczki o praktycznie kazdy szczegol (20 m-cy, 24/7 razem, to jednak za duzo jak dla mnie), sprawily, ze po 1,5 dnia razem dalam ultimatum: albo ja sie wynosze, albo on. Nastepnego dnia spakowal sie i wyjechal.
To byl szok. Tyle razy klocilismy sie i "rozstawalismy" na 10 minut, nigdy na powaznie. Poczatkowo spanikowalam, nie wierzylam, ze to sie naprawde dzieje. Po tak dlugim czasie, nie wyobrazalam sobie nagle byc sama, w obcym panstwie, daleko od domu itp. Na szczescie mialam przed soba 2 tygodnie pobytu u Maliki, troche czasu na przemyslenia i "ogarniecie sie". Dzien po wyjezdzie D. pojechalam z Malika i jej mama do szpitala, gdzie pierwszy raz w zyciu mialam robione badanie krwi (dobrze w wieku 22 lat dowiedziec sie, jaka sie ma grupe krwi!) w zwiazku z podejrzeniem malarii (zmierzona goraczka - 39,6 stopni). Rezultat negatywny, a goraczka wziela sie od ukaszenia pewnego (nie znam nazwy) insekta. Po 2 dniach na antybiotykach poczulam sie calkowicie normalnie. I bardziej optymistycznie zaczelam patrzec na samotna przyszlosc...
Po dokladnie 17 dniach, ktore spedzilam uczac angielskiego, odwiedzajac rozne miejsca w chiang mai i przygotowujac sie do dalszej podrozy, zostalam odwieziona przez Malike na autostrade prowadzaca do Bangkoku. Wreszcie moglam odebrac paszport i jechac do Laosu, ktory zaplanowalam jeszcze z D.
Po jednym dniu spedzonym w Bangkoku, ruszylismy do maista Pattaya, ktore okazalo sie centrum lokalnej i miedzynarodowej prostytucji. Widoki niezbyt przyjemne, za to wlasnie tam zrealizowalam swoje male marzenie sprzed wielu lat - nurkowanie. Nie wiedzialam, czy mi sie spodoba, wiec zrobilam tylko 2 probne nurkowania (zamiast bardzo popularnego kursu open water) za ok 320 zl. Wrazenia niesamowite! Rafa nie powalala (nie to, co Koh Tao, czy Australia), ale bylo zdecydowanie warto. Cos, co z pewnoscia chce kiedys powtorzyc.
Po Pattayi skierowalismy sie do Chiang Mai, gdzie w miedzyczasie znalazlam 10-dniowy kurs medytacji w buddyjskim klasztorze. Powtorka z Indii, ale w zdecydowanie zmienionej, mocno religijnej oprawie. Inny rodzaj medytacji (siedzaca i chodzaca), zakwaterowanie na terenie buddysjkiego manasteru, jedzenie, modlitwy z mnichami, dozwolone tylko biale stroje itp. Wszystko skladalo sie na niesamowity, spirytualistyczny klimat. Sama medytacja bylo o wiele "luzniejsza", niz ta z Indii. Nie bylo przymusu siedzenia na zbiorowych sejsjach, kazdy mial duza swobode, co zdecydowanie oznaczalo, ze byli tam ludzie, ktorzy naprawde chcieli to robic, z wlasnej woli i motywacji. Koncowy rezultat jak najbardziej pozytywny, dajacy wrazenie, ze taka medytacje mozna cwiczyc codziennie i nawet kilkanascie minut jest bardzo pomocne.
Ostatniego dnia poczulam sie slabo. Goraczka, zimne poty, czyli typowe objawy zaziebienia (a w tropikach tez malarii, dengi i calej masy innych chorob). Przez 4 dni bralam paracetamol liczac, ze samo przejdzie. Po wyjsciu z kursu od razu razem z D. pojechalismy do domu Maliki, zgodnie z zaakceptowanym wczesniej planem (poznalam Malike z ogloszenia, w ktrym szukala nauczyciela angielskiego dla jej 22-letniego syna, bez zaplaty, ale z darmowym mieszkaniem i wyzywieniem; zgodzila sie przyjac mnie i D., pomimo, ze uczyc mialam tylko ja). W malym pokoju, w ktorym mieszkalam razem z D. od pierwszych chwil zaczal sie kociol. Moje fatalne samopoczucie plus kolejne klotnie i potyczki o praktycznie kazdy szczegol (20 m-cy, 24/7 razem, to jednak za duzo jak dla mnie), sprawily, ze po 1,5 dnia razem dalam ultimatum: albo ja sie wynosze, albo on. Nastepnego dnia spakowal sie i wyjechal.
To byl szok. Tyle razy klocilismy sie i "rozstawalismy" na 10 minut, nigdy na powaznie. Poczatkowo spanikowalam, nie wierzylam, ze to sie naprawde dzieje. Po tak dlugim czasie, nie wyobrazalam sobie nagle byc sama, w obcym panstwie, daleko od domu itp. Na szczescie mialam przed soba 2 tygodnie pobytu u Maliki, troche czasu na przemyslenia i "ogarniecie sie". Dzien po wyjezdzie D. pojechalam z Malika i jej mama do szpitala, gdzie pierwszy raz w zyciu mialam robione badanie krwi (dobrze w wieku 22 lat dowiedziec sie, jaka sie ma grupe krwi!) w zwiazku z podejrzeniem malarii (zmierzona goraczka - 39,6 stopni). Rezultat negatywny, a goraczka wziela sie od ukaszenia pewnego (nie znam nazwy) insekta. Po 2 dniach na antybiotykach poczulam sie calkowicie normalnie. I bardziej optymistycznie zaczelam patrzec na samotna przyszlosc...
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| Me, Malika and her mother |
Pierwsza spektakularna zmiana byl wszeobecny spokoj. Po rozstaniu z D. przestalam sie stresowac, klocic, byc smutna, niecierpliwa itd. Wszystkie negatywne emocja nagle ulecialy. Nie martwilam sie o przyszlosc, przyjmujac buddyjska zasade skupiania sie na terazniejszosci i nie mysleniu o tym, co bylo i tym, co bedzie. Po prostu jechac dalej i tyle. Pomimo, ze to mial byc moj pierwszy samotny wyjazd na taka skale (wczesniej jezdzilam sama po Brunei, ale tylko 6 dni), czulam sie calkowicie opanowana i "gotowa na wszystko". Autostop do Bangkoku poszedl o niebo lepiej, niz sie spodziewalam. Przejechalam ok 650 km w 1 dzien, co dla porownania ze stopowaniem w parze rownaloby sie co najmniej 2 dniom. 4 na 5 samochodow, ktore zlapalam jechaly ponad 150 km, a na koniec zostalam zaproszona na noc do rodziny, z ktora jechalam. Nagle bariera jezykowa przestala byc problemem i z 10 slow po angielsku potrafilam przeprowadzic jako-taka "rozmowe". Ich dom znajdowal sie na wsi, w tradycyjnym stylu, w ktory ja tez zostalam wlaczona poprzez pomoc w gotowaniu i noszeniu lokalnego stroju (sarong).
Bangkok mial byc postojem na 2 dni, w rezultacie byl na 5. Bylam umowiona ze znajoma, ktora miala mnie przenocowac, ale poniewaz przyjechalam za wczesnie, tamtego dnia byla zajeta. Bez wiekszego stresu i strachu zdecydowalam sie nocowac pod dworcem kolejowym. Raz zeby zaoszczedzic, ale glownie dlatego, ze nie mialam zamiaru jechac na Khao San Road, rojacej sie od zachodnich turystow. Chcialam byc sama, a przynajmniej sama wsrod Tajow. Czekajac na noc, na hali dworcowej, niespodziewania wdalam sie w rozmowe z lokalnym mezczyzna (Taj chinskiego pochodzenia), ktory byl zaskoczony moja znajomoscia angielskiego (byl w Polsce 30 lat temu i myslal, ze niewiele sie zmienilo) i tym, ze mieszkalam w Londynie. Poniewaz on tez tam przez jakis czas przebywal, znalazl we mnie bratnia dusze do wspomniej z tego miasta. Po krotkiej rozmowie zaproponowal, ze postawi i nocleg w hotelu, a pozniej zabierze na kolacje. Dzieki temu mialam, gdzie spokojnie spac, tuz przy dworcu. Spotkanie zakonczylo sie wymiana telefonow i oczywiscie obietnica zostania w kontakcie.
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| Bangkok railway station |
Po odbiorze paszportu zamierzalam wyjechac z Bangkoku w kierunku Laosu, ale nieoczekiwanie zmienilam plany i zostalam dodatkowe 2 dni. Chcialam lepiej zastanowic sie nad dalsza trasa i ewentualnymi zmianami. Spotkalam sie tez 2 razy z tym samym mezczyzna, rozmawiajac na tysiace tematow, glownie zwiazanych z podrozami i jego byla praca. Przewijanie jednego watku po raz enty stalo sie dla mnie troche zmudne, ale ogolnie towarzystwo bylo przednie.
Znowu w drodze, 11.05 ruszylam najpierw pociagiem ok 300 km za Bangkok (bilet 3 klasy, ok 3zl), potem stopem byle jak najdalej. I znowu zakonczylo sie zaproszeniem na kolacje i nocleg, tym razem od mlodego malzenstwa (Tajowie sa naprawde niesamowicie goscinni i pomocni, nigdy nie zostawia osoby bez dachu nad glowa). Idealnie sie zlozylo: moj ostatni dzien w Tajlandii i kolacja (m.in. swinskie jelita jako specjal) przepijana whiskey. Pomimo moich protestow, nazajutrz zostalam odwieziona na autobus prosto pod granice z Laosem, za ktory zaplacili gospodarze. Jezdzac z D. przewaznie odmawialismy kupowania nam biletu, zeby nie naciagac ludzi na duze kwoty, wiedzac, ze stopem na pewno dojedziemy. Bedac sama, nie bylam pewna jak mi to pojdzie, wiec asekuracyjnie godzilam sie na takie propozycje, dla zaoszczedzenia czasu i zwiekszenia bezpieczenstwa.
Kilka godzin w autobusie, kilkunastominutowa odprawa paszportowa po obu stronach granicy, stop przez Most Przyjazni dla "zasady" i zaoszczedzenia kilku groszy, i naczyna sie Laos...
After almost a year since last time in Thailand, in March 2013 me and D. again visited this country (it were our last weeks together). This time it was more buissness trip - I had to apply for a new passport due to shortage of visa pages. We crossed south Thai border having 60-days visas, and immidiately headed to Bangkok. It took us 2,5 days (thanks to a driver who gave us over 500km-long lift), and we got to the capital just before Easter. Application for a new passport: 15 minutes, cost: $120, processing time: 6 weeks (!). I wasn't exactly happy to stay another 6 weeks in a country which I'd already visited for 5 weeks. I didn't know what to do, where to go. For some time before I planned to find some Buddhist monastery and stay there for a while, and I finally had an opportunity to do so.
After 1 day in Bangkok we went to the city of Pattaya, which turned out to be a center of national and international prostitution. Not really fabulous views, but Pattaya was the place where my little dream from the past came true. I tried scuba diving! I hadn't known if I liked it so I tried only 2 dives ($100) instead of full open water course. Amazing! Reef is not as stunning as in Kho Tao or Australia but I loved it anyways. I definitely want to try it some more times in the future.
After Pattaya we headed to Chiang Mai, where I found 10-days long medditation course in Buddhist monastery. Another course, after the one in India, but definitely different, more religious. Sitting and walking meditation, accomodation in the monastery, living along monks, white clothes only etc. This all created some kind of spiritual atmosphere in there. Meditation itself was not as strickt as the one in India, everybody could choose what to do and nobody checked on you. It was definitely for people who really wanted to practise and were motivated to do it. The result, as always, was positive and gave impression that even a few minutes of practine can help a lot.
The last day of course I felt bad. Had fever and cold sweats - typical symptoms of flu, malaria, dengue and load of other tropical diseases. For 4 days I was on paracetamol waiting to feel better. After the course me and D. went to see Malika (she was looking for an English teacher for her 22 year old son; no salary but accomodation and meals provided; I called her and arrange the job) as we'd agreed before. Me and D. stayed together in small room at her house and since the very beginning all the fights started again. I felt bad and could make a fuss over anything, even small things. D's behaviour didn't help as well, and as a result after 1,5 days like that I said either I go or he goes away. He packed and left the next morning.
I couldn't believe it. So many times we fought and "split" for 10 mins, so I couldn't accept it had really ended. I panicked. I was alone far away from home and was suppose to travel all by my own. Luckily I had 2 weeks of safe and secure stay at Malika's house and time to think it over and plan something for the future. The day after D. left I went to the hospital. Couldn't stand my fever anymore (it was checked at the hospital - 39,6 celcius). I thought I had malaria but the blood test (very first in my life) was negative. I got some antibiotics and 2 days after felt totally good. Also mentally good as I started seeing some bright glimpses of my future...
After 17 days of teaching English, and visiting some tourist attractions with Malika and her family, I was taken to the highway to Bangkok. I could finally pick up my passport and go to Laos, which was a plan made long time before with D.
First sagnificant change was calmness and peace. I felt no anger, sadness, frustration, etc. Felt like all the negative emotions were gone since I split with D. I followed Buddhist rule of thinking about present time, no future or past. Just go with the flow. And even though I was my first real trip only on my own (before I travelled alone for 6 days in Brunei) I was very calm and ready for anything. That day I hitch-hiked 650 km, with 5 driver (4 of them took me over 150 km) and the last family who I rode with invited me to stay overnight. Incredible how many conversations you can create using no more than 10 English words and a lot of sign language. They lived in the village, in a traditional Thai house where I helped cooking and wore some trdictional clothes (sarong) along with others.
I was supposed to stay in Bangkok for 2 days, stayed 5 in the end. I had a friend who promised to host me, but because I got there too early she wasn't available that day. I simply decided to sleep at the train station as I wanted to save money but mostly didn't want to go to Khao San Road, where all the backpackers stay. I was sitting and waiting at the station hall and suddenly got involved in the conversation with local man (Thai with Chinese origin) who was amazed with my English (he was in Poland 30 years ago and thought it's all the same now) and the fact that I lived in London. As he also stayed there for some time we had something in common and after short conversation he offered to pay for my hotel room in nearby place and invited for a dinner. Thanks to him I had safe place to stay. We exchanged mobile numbers and promised to stay in touch.
The next day, after I picked my passport up I was supposed to head to Laos but suddenly satyed 2 days more in Bangkok to think things over. I met my new friend 2 more and we had loads of conversations, mostly about travelling and his past bussiness.
Finally, May 11th I took a train to a city 300 km away from Bangkok (3rd class - $1) and from there started hitch-hiking to Laos. Again I ended up being invited for a dinner and to stay overnight by youg couple. Dinner with some whiskey toast was like a farewell party for me as it was my last day in Thailand. The next morning thay took me to the bus stations and despite my protests bought me a ticket to the border. When I travelled with D., usually I wouldn't accept such offers, coz I know we could always get anywhere by hitch-hiking. But being alone, I cared more about time and personal safety so I accepted the offers given.
Few hours on the bus, dealing with customs and hitch-hiking over the Friendship Bridge, and that's how Laos starts...
After almost a year since last time in Thailand, in March 2013 me and D. again visited this country (it were our last weeks together). This time it was more buissness trip - I had to apply for a new passport due to shortage of visa pages. We crossed south Thai border having 60-days visas, and immidiately headed to Bangkok. It took us 2,5 days (thanks to a driver who gave us over 500km-long lift), and we got to the capital just before Easter. Application for a new passport: 15 minutes, cost: $120, processing time: 6 weeks (!). I wasn't exactly happy to stay another 6 weeks in a country which I'd already visited for 5 weeks. I didn't know what to do, where to go. For some time before I planned to find some Buddhist monastery and stay there for a while, and I finally had an opportunity to do so.
After 1 day in Bangkok we went to the city of Pattaya, which turned out to be a center of national and international prostitution. Not really fabulous views, but Pattaya was the place where my little dream from the past came true. I tried scuba diving! I hadn't known if I liked it so I tried only 2 dives ($100) instead of full open water course. Amazing! Reef is not as stunning as in Kho Tao or Australia but I loved it anyways. I definitely want to try it some more times in the future.
After Pattaya we headed to Chiang Mai, where I found 10-days long medditation course in Buddhist monastery. Another course, after the one in India, but definitely different, more religious. Sitting and walking meditation, accomodation in the monastery, living along monks, white clothes only etc. This all created some kind of spiritual atmosphere in there. Meditation itself was not as strickt as the one in India, everybody could choose what to do and nobody checked on you. It was definitely for people who really wanted to practise and were motivated to do it. The result, as always, was positive and gave impression that even a few minutes of practine can help a lot.
The last day of course I felt bad. Had fever and cold sweats - typical symptoms of flu, malaria, dengue and load of other tropical diseases. For 4 days I was on paracetamol waiting to feel better. After the course me and D. went to see Malika (she was looking for an English teacher for her 22 year old son; no salary but accomodation and meals provided; I called her and arrange the job) as we'd agreed before. Me and D. stayed together in small room at her house and since the very beginning all the fights started again. I felt bad and could make a fuss over anything, even small things. D's behaviour didn't help as well, and as a result after 1,5 days like that I said either I go or he goes away. He packed and left the next morning.
I couldn't believe it. So many times we fought and "split" for 10 mins, so I couldn't accept it had really ended. I panicked. I was alone far away from home and was suppose to travel all by my own. Luckily I had 2 weeks of safe and secure stay at Malika's house and time to think it over and plan something for the future. The day after D. left I went to the hospital. Couldn't stand my fever anymore (it was checked at the hospital - 39,6 celcius). I thought I had malaria but the blood test (very first in my life) was negative. I got some antibiotics and 2 days after felt totally good. Also mentally good as I started seeing some bright glimpses of my future...
After 17 days of teaching English, and visiting some tourist attractions with Malika and her family, I was taken to the highway to Bangkok. I could finally pick up my passport and go to Laos, which was a plan made long time before with D.
First sagnificant change was calmness and peace. I felt no anger, sadness, frustration, etc. Felt like all the negative emotions were gone since I split with D. I followed Buddhist rule of thinking about present time, no future or past. Just go with the flow. And even though I was my first real trip only on my own (before I travelled alone for 6 days in Brunei) I was very calm and ready for anything. That day I hitch-hiked 650 km, with 5 driver (4 of them took me over 150 km) and the last family who I rode with invited me to stay overnight. Incredible how many conversations you can create using no more than 10 English words and a lot of sign language. They lived in the village, in a traditional Thai house where I helped cooking and wore some trdictional clothes (sarong) along with others.
I was supposed to stay in Bangkok for 2 days, stayed 5 in the end. I had a friend who promised to host me, but because I got there too early she wasn't available that day. I simply decided to sleep at the train station as I wanted to save money but mostly didn't want to go to Khao San Road, where all the backpackers stay. I was sitting and waiting at the station hall and suddenly got involved in the conversation with local man (Thai with Chinese origin) who was amazed with my English (he was in Poland 30 years ago and thought it's all the same now) and the fact that I lived in London. As he also stayed there for some time we had something in common and after short conversation he offered to pay for my hotel room in nearby place and invited for a dinner. Thanks to him I had safe place to stay. We exchanged mobile numbers and promised to stay in touch.
The next day, after I picked my passport up I was supposed to head to Laos but suddenly satyed 2 days more in Bangkok to think things over. I met my new friend 2 more and we had loads of conversations, mostly about travelling and his past bussiness.
Finally, May 11th I took a train to a city 300 km away from Bangkok (3rd class - $1) and from there started hitch-hiking to Laos. Again I ended up being invited for a dinner and to stay overnight by youg couple. Dinner with some whiskey toast was like a farewell party for me as it was my last day in Thailand. The next morning thay took me to the bus stations and despite my protests bought me a ticket to the border. When I travelled with D., usually I wouldn't accept such offers, coz I know we could always get anywhere by hitch-hiking. But being alone, I cared more about time and personal safety so I accepted the offers given.
Few hours on the bus, dealing with customs and hitch-hiking over the Friendship Bridge, and that's how Laos starts...
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